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caprad
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Post subject: Stuffing box/packing nut tightness
 Posted: Jul 18, 2010 - 05:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 7
Boat Summary: "Osage", Hull #204.
Status: Offline
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re: Cape Dory FB Hull# 204 TAMD41A
Just recently had this boat dropped back in the water. Along with a bottom job, the prop shaft rubber stern tube was replaced with new rubber. Of course, had the packing gland replaced. This through hull packing gland unit has the injector.
I noticed that there is no drip. On my previous boat, all sailboats, there was a 30 second to one minute drip. At present, the packing nut is tight enough to not allow for any drip. Am concerned that it is screwed down too tight. Should this backing nut be backed off to allow for an occasional drip.
This morning, I ran the boat at the dock with forward engaged (at idle) and noticed that the packing nut became pretty hot. Is this an indication that the packing nut should be backed off a bit?
Thanks for your response.
Rich--Osage--St. Louis |
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kg4mdx
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 18, 2010 - 11:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 45
Boat Summary: "Walkabout", Hull # 153. Red hull, name in white letters on the side, fly bridge removed.
Status: Offline
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Rich,
On Walkabout (TAMD41A with the injector stuffing box), I use regular flax packing and adjust the stuffing box so that there is a slow drip, a sailboat drip.
The injector on the stuffing box should have a hose leading to the transmission, and the hose should have a valve in it to turn the water on and off (interesting reason for that valve, when you need it, you really need it). That hose It brings engine cooling water to the stuffing box and is needed because the prop is so close to the hull, at speed sea water dosn't enter the cutless bearing from the out side the way it should. The injector is just a supplement for cooling water--there needs to be a little cooling water drip when the engine is running.
Bill |
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caprad
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 19, 2010 - 07:18 PM
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Joined: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 7
Boat Summary: "Osage", Hull #204.
Status: Offline
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Bill,
You confirmed my belief that there needed to be the slow drip.
As for the injector, I didn't know the technical reason other than it provided some cooling and lubrication.
Thanks very much for your response.
Rich |
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brandywine
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Post subject:
Posted: Aug 02, 2010 - 04:28 PM
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Ask Clive Moderator
Joined: Jul 21, 2006
Posts: 83
Boat Summary: "Brandywine", Hull #219.
Hailing Port: Providence, RI
Home Port: Annapolis, MD
1991 CD28 FB
Status: Offline
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Bill:
Why would you need a valve on the cutlass bearing cooling hose? Why would it need to be turned off? Would the valve be located between the bearing and the transmission?
Thanks, mark |
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kg4mdx
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Post subject:
Posted: Aug 07, 2010 - 12:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 45
Boat Summary: "Walkabout", Hull # 153. Red hull, name in white letters on the side, fly bridge removed.
Status: Offline
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Mark,
The cut off valve in the cooling water line between the stuffing box and the transmission is there because the transmission and the raw water lines into and out of the transmission are under water. On the older TAMD41As the raw water cooling lines to and from the transmission were mild steel and were coupled to the transmission with bronze attachments. There was a rubber seal in the attachment but you still had mild steel, bronze and warm salt water in contact and there is enough galvanic difference between mild steel and bronze that the steel will eventually corrode. The steel corrodes from the inside out, and pin holes, right at the bronze attachment fitting. To repair it you need to cut off the raw water flow at the main sea cock AND from the stuffing box-which is why that little valve is there. One of ours corroded through while we were at anchor in Daytona Beach, a fair amount of water was coming out and it had to be fixed, right then. If you can't make repairs right then slap some underwater epoxy on it and hope it holds.
We well be back on the boat on 14 August and probably will be on a mooring in Annapolis for a day or two later in the week.
Bill |
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